Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream No 28

Betaine is a naturally derived ingredient, an amino acid.  Also known as Trimethylglycine or glycinebetaine. It is obtained from the process of making sugar out of sugar beets. Being an osmolyte, its structure allows to attract water and help maintain cell water balance. Betaine reduces the ability of water molecules to solvate proteins, thus stabilizing the native protein structures.  It primarily functions as a humectant and anti-irritant in cosmetic products, is prone to hydrogen bonding. It is identified as anti-melanogenic agent. Accumulated evidence has shown that betaine has anti-inflammatory functions in numerous diseases.

Betula Alba Bark Extract, contains Betullinic Acid, that gives the extract antioxidant, anti-irritant  properties. Betullinic Acid, is currently being tested as a promising cancer treatment. Natural triterpenoid that displays anti-HIV and antitumor activity. The recent researches have proven its capillary-strengthening and anti-inflammatory properties.  

The wide range of ingredients (oleic, linoleic, and stearic acids, antioxidants, vitamins) in shea butter regulates the moisture balance of the skin naturally and moisturises the skin, soothing and smoothing. Shea butter helps repair the skin and is an effective remedy for dark spots, wrinkles, stretch marks and sunburn. Its healing properties help treat minor burns, small wounds and insect bites. The lipid barrier of the cornea is strengthened, making shea butter ideal for the care of dry, atopic and damaged skin.

Patented active inredient STIMULHYAL©, Laboratory SOLIANCE (France).

This is acalcium complex, a natural molecule extracted during the fermentation process of lactic cultures. This complex with great anti-wrinkle and moisturizing properties stimulates the endogenous production of hyaluronic acid ( ca.95,7%) and elastin (ca.35,8%), that increasing the biomechanical properties, especially the elasticity of the skin.

It is obtained from the original olive oil by esterification of its fatty acid groups and combined with sorbitol and cetearyl alcohol. It is a non-ionic and mild emulsifier. It is a cutting-edge oil-in water emulsion stabilizing agent and liquid crystal promoter lamellar liquid that actually reorganizes emulsion structure on a microscopic level, improving product performance, texture and feel. Ist combination of fatty acids that are chemically similar to the composition of the hy drolipidic film of the skin.

It has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures, making it an ideal biomimetic ingredient in terms of composition and structure. The distinct lamellar liquid crystal structure is remarkably similar to the skin’s own natural lipid structure, creating an excellent delivery system that provides superior hydrating effects due to the high water content of the liquid crystalline structure that forms when in contact with the skin.

It is a Liquid Crystal Promoter derived from Olive Oil fatty acids. It is a cutting-edge oil-in water emulsion stabilizing agent, while enhancing the texture of cosmetics products. His unique “crystal network” is similar to human skin lipids and promotes excellent delivery to skin. It improves cream spreadability, leaving silky after-feel. It enhancing the sun protection factor (SPF) in skincare products.

It is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the flowers of Chamomilla recutita.It is one of the most powerful anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiseptic agents. It is often used in skin care formulations for sensitive, baby skin.

Gluconolactone is white crystalline powder derived from gluconic acid received  from vegetable raw materials. Gluconic acid, found abundantly in plant, honey and wine, is a mild organic acid derived from glucose by a simple oxidation reaction. It’s a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), that is often referred to as next generation AHA. It gently lifts off dead skin cells form the skin surface making skin smooth and even. In the long term it provides anti-aging benefits. It has comparable skin benefits to AHAs but without the irritation as a side effect.

A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. The results of this study showed that both gluconolactone and benzoyl peroxide had a significant effect in improving patients' acne by reducing the number of lesions (inflamed and non-inflamed). Furthermore, fewer side-effects were experienced by patients treated with gluconolactone when compared with benzoyl peroxide.

Guar gum is a polysaccharide from the Indian cluster bean (Cyanopsis tetragonoloba), a polymer of galactose and mannose.  Guar gum acts as a thickener, emulsifier, stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. It can form a "free breathing" film on hair and skin, that prevents water loss. As a conditioner, it will make skin smooth and soft.

The oil is derived from the seeds of the chaulmoogra tree. The tree grows in tropical forests found in India. Chaulmoogra contains an active ingredient known as hydnocarpic acid, which is an excellent antimicrobial agent. It can be used to treat eczema, psoriasis, bruises, wounds and sores. It cleanses, and reduces the flow of sebum to leave a clear skin. Its additonal benefit is that it helps to regulate pigmentation.

Recent studies have shown that olive fruits have high contents of bioactive compounds, including phenolic compounds, with diverse biological properties, such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory. This extract contains biophenols, one of them more powerful than Vit. C is hydroxytyrosol, the most potent antioxidant found in nature todate.Rich in Vitamin E and Oleic Acid, it helps nourish and balance the skin’s lipid, protects against oxidative damage and premature ageing.

This extract is known to optimize the metabolic processes in the skin, to strengthen the capillaries, to eliminate the itching and irritation. It has pronounced anti-inflammatory and deodorizing activities. Honeysuckle extract is a natural, plant-based preservative that is strongly anti-bacterial and anti-viral. It works to prevent fungal and bacterial growth in water based products, it is used as natural preservative in green cosmetics.

Macadamia Nut Oil is cold pressed form the nut of Macadamia integrifolia trees. Macadamia Nut Oil, Macadamia integrifolia, has one of the highest sources of the essential fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, found in animal oils he absolute best, plant alternative, to animal based oils, this is the oil of choice to replace the activity of Mink Oil, and even Shark Liver Oil. Macadamia Nut Oil is excellent in hair care. It eliminates flaking and moisturizes fragile, damaged, dry skin.

Rice bran oil is extracted from the germ as well as the husk of rice. Skin benefits of rice bran oil are largely attributed to the high level of vitamin E, vitamin B, omega-9, a rich array of fatty acids. In addition, it contains a rich source of antioxidants, such as beta-carotene, CoQ10, and lycopene, that can shield skin from environmental and internal stressors.

The compound gamma Oryzanol present in rice bran oil is considered to be more potent antioxidant then vitamin E. Rice Bran oil is a good source of Ferulic Acid , that is a phytochemical with high antioxidant activities. It helps neutralise free radicals and prevent oxidative stress in the body and skin. Beside the antioxidant activities, Ferulic Acid also has UV protecting and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps prevent UV induced skin damage and reduce skin sensitivity. Ferulic acid also increases the stability of Vitamins C and E, preventing oxidization and maintaining the efficacy of these powerful vitamins.

One of the plants being considered as a potential source of prebiotic is yacon. Yacon mainly contains fructooligosaccharides (FOS) and inulin, those are resposable for various nutrigenomic properties, including as a prebiotic for intestinal health and their antimicrobial and antioxidant effects. The yacon juice has potential protective effects forbacterial skin infections due to its anti-staphylococcal properties.

It has shown an inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus and S.acnes. The skin microbiota is in result balanced. It a source of powerful antioxidants, acides, that protect the skin from UV-rays damage.

Rosehip oil is pressed from the fruit and seeds of the rose plant. Rosehip oil contains a wealth of essential fatty acids, including linoleic and linolenic acid. Fatty acids help to keep cell walls strong so that they don’t lose water. Rosehip oil is loaded with skin-nourishing vitamins, phenols and antioxidants. It has been shown to have antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal properties.This oil moisturizes, calms and repears the skin.

Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin). Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate can replace some of the water lost in the dermis, and potentially fight wrinkles and other signs of aging. Stimulates own hyaluronic acid production. Improves skin immunity by stimulating the production of antimicrobial peptides.

Squalene are natural components of human sebum, a mixture of lipids produced by glands in the skin. It is used in cosmetics to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) or prevent moisture loss, and to restore the skin’s suppleness and flexibility. It reducees the oxidative damage to the skin due to exposure to UV light and prevents pigmentation.

Tocopherols are another group of chemicals that make up the vitamin E family. Tocotrienols target specific free radicals and sources of inflammation, however. Applied to skin, it is considered a good moisturizing and skin-soothing ingredient. Beta-Sitosterol ia a fatty acid-type ingredient derived from plants. Beta-sitosterol occurs naturally in many fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is similar to cholesterol, which occurs naturally in skin. It Improves an epitelization, ptotecks from UV-rays.

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide with many industrial uses, which is made by mixing fermented sugars. It is used as a stabiliser, emulsifier, thickener, suspending agent and bodying agent. Xanthan gum exhibits high viscosity at low concentrations, little change in viscosity at varying temperatures, and excellent stability over a wide pH range.It improves cream texture und moisturizes the skin.

Одно из немногих масел из семян, которое содержит как омега-36, так и омега-6, и обладает одной из самых высоких концентраций полиненасыщенных жирных кислот (ПНЖК) среди всех природных масел (порядка 75%). Причем в наиболее физиологичной пропорции омега-3 и омега-6 - в соотношении 3:1. Обладет широким спектром воздействий на кожу:

•  уменьшает трансэпидермальную потерю воды,
• укрепляет липидный барьер кожи,
• обладает противовоспалительными и противозудными свойствами,
• регулируют салоотделение,
• используется при лечение псориаза / атопического дерматита.