Regenerating Serum No.89 for Lipid Barrier Restoration and Correction of Age-Related Skin Changes

Betaine is a naturally derived ingredient, an amino acid.  Also known as Trimethylglycine or glycinebetaine. It is obtained from the process of making sugar out of sugar beets. Being an osmolyte, its structure allows to attract water and help maintain cell water balance. Betaine reduces the ability of water molecules to solvate proteins, thus stabilizing the native protein structures.  It primarily functions as a humectant and anti-irritant in cosmetic products, is prone to hydrogen bonding. It is identified as anti-melanogenic agent. Accumulated evidence has shown that betaine has anti-inflammatory functions in numerous diseases.

Patented active inredient STIMULHYAL©, Laboratory SOLIANCE (France).

This is acalcium complex, a natural molecule extracted during the fermentation process of lactic cultures. This complex with great anti-wrinkle and moisturizing properties stimulates the endogenous production of hyaluronic acid ( ca.95,7%) and elastin (ca.35,8%), that increasing the biomechanical properties, especially the elasticity of the skin.

Cornflower, also known as Bachelor’s Button, is a delicate and beautiful blue flower native to Europe. In cosmetics, it mainly used as an anti-inflammatory, skin conditoning and biostimulating agent. It works as regenerating, smoothing, reducing wrinkles drug, especially in eye care products. It's rich in specifically flavonoids and polyphenols, including tannins. Tannins have astringent properties, making them excellent for minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing puffy eyes.

It is obtained from the original olive oil by esterification of its fatty acid groups and combined with sorbitol and cetearyl alcohol. It is a non-ionic and mild emulsifier. It is a cutting-edge oil-in water emulsion stabilizing agent and liquid crystal promoter lamellar liquid that actually reorganizes emulsion structure on a microscopic level, improving product performance, texture and feel. Ist combination of fatty acids that are chemically similar to the composition of the hy drolipidic film of the skin.

It has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures, making it an ideal biomimetic ingredient in terms of composition and structure. The distinct lamellar liquid crystal structure is remarkably similar to the skin’s own natural lipid structure, creating an excellent delivery system that provides superior hydrating effects due to the high water content of the liquid crystalline structure that forms when in contact with the skin.

Gluconolactone is white crystalline powder derived from gluconic acid received  from vegetable raw materials. Gluconic acid, found abundantly in plant, honey and wine, is a mild organic acid derived from glucose by a simple oxidation reaction. It’s a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), that is often referred to as next generation AHA. It gently lifts off dead skin cells form the skin surface making skin smooth and even. In the long term it provides anti-aging benefits. It has comparable skin benefits to AHAs but without the irritation as a side effect.

A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. The results of this study showed that both gluconolactone and benzoyl peroxide had a significant effect in improving patients' acne by reducing the number of lesions (inflamed and non-inflamed). Furthermore, fewer side-effects were experienced by patients treated with gluconolactone when compared with benzoyl peroxide.

Guar gum is a polysaccharide from the Indian cluster bean (Cyanopsis tetragonoloba), a polymer of galactose and mannose.  Guar gum acts as a thickener, emulsifier, stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. It can form a "free breathing" film on hair and skin, that prevents water loss. As a conditioner, it will make skin smooth and soft.

Patented active inredient of the Laboratory Givaudan (France). Yogurtene® Balance combines the skin benefits of yogurt with the prebiotic activity of Inulin, a vegetable fructose polysaccharide derived from chicory. Yogurtene® Balance reduces the growth of pathogenic bacteria in favour of friendly microorganisms naturally present on the epidermis. It has no antibacterial properties and remains gentle for the skin, regulates the production of sebum. It also provides the skin with all the benefits of yogurt: non-hydrolysed proteins, lactose, vitamins and minerals.

Patented compound ANTILEIKIN-6© of laboratory BIOTEH MARINE (France).

Laminaria Ochroleuca, also known as "golden seaweed," is appreciated for remarcable properties to combat the effects of UVA and UVB rays. Rich in nutrients, this extract helps smooth the skin, has a significant effects on the hydration, firmness of the skin, it also helps moisturize skin while boosting the skin’s barrier layer. Because seaweed cells are surprisingly similar to skin cells, it protects and maintains the skin’s natural balance, defending against irritation, stimulating the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans.

This extract is known to optimize the metabolic processes in the skin, to strengthen the capillaries, to eliminate the itching and irritation. It has pronounced anti-inflammatory and deodorizing activities. Honeysuckle extract is a natural, plant-based preservative that is strongly anti-bacterial and anti-viral. It works to prevent fungal and bacterial growth in water based products, it is used as natural preservative in green cosmetics.

Macadamia Nut Oil is cold pressed form the nut of Macadamia integrifolia trees. Macadamia Nut Oil, Macadamia integrifolia, has one of the highest sources of the essential fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, found in animal oils he absolute best, plant alternative, to animal based oils, this is the oil of choice to replace the activity of Mink Oil, and even Shark Liver Oil. Macadamia Nut Oil is excellent in hair care. It eliminates flaking and moisturizes fragile, damaged, dry skin.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is the oil extracted from the fruit (olives) of the Olive tree. Olive oil contains three major antioxidants: vitamin E, polyphenols, and phytosterols. Antioxidants, when topically applied, may help protect the skin from premature skin aging. Vitamin E partly accounts for the anti-aging benefits of olive oil because it helps restore skin smoothness and protects against ultraviolet light. It is known to maintain the softness, suppleness, and radiance of skin and hair. The oil shows to eliminate bacteria by deeply penetrating pores without clogging them and to have cleansing properties that purge dirt, sweat and excess sebum from hair and skin. It is able to repair and improve the appearance of damaged tissue such as scars, acne, and wrinkles.

Rice bran oil is extracted from the germ as well as the husk of rice. Skin benefits of rice bran oil are largely attributed to the high level of vitamin E, vitamin B, omega-9, a rich array of fatty acids. In addition, it contains a rich source of antioxidants, such as beta-carotene, CoQ10, and lycopene, that can shield skin from environmental and internal stressors.

The compound gamma Oryzanol present in rice bran oil is considered to be more potent antioxidant then vitamin E. Rice Bran oil is a good source of Ferulic Acid , that is a phytochemical with high antioxidant activities. It helps neutralise free radicals and prevent oxidative stress in the body and skin. Beside the antioxidant activities, Ferulic Acid also has UV protecting and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps prevent UV induced skin damage and reduce skin sensitivity. Ferulic acid also increases the stability of Vitamins C and E, preventing oxidization and maintaining the efficacy of these powerful vitamins.

Sacha Inchi seeds are considered to be the richest plant-based source of essential fatty acids and vitamins. Sacha Inchi oil contains 93% unsaturated fatty acids. Sacha Inchi oil processed from the seed is reported to contain a high consentration of gamma-tocopherol and of delta-tocopherol, whish are more powerful than alfa-tocopherol (vit.E). That s why this oil acts blocking free radical damage caused by exposure to UV rays. Vitamin E also boosts collagen production, helping to maintain skin elasticity and prevent wrinkle und scars formation. It is gentle enough to use on all skin typee, specially on sensativ and damaged skin (eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis).

Ceramides are major lipid components in the stratum corneum of the human skin. The Complex of ceramides-3,-5 plant origins which is necessary for restoration and normal functioning of cell structures, synergistically improve the skin barrier function in humans. It is specially made for long term protection and repair of sensitive, damaged and dry skin.

Ricinus Communis (Castor) seed oil is made from the seeds from the Ricinus Communis plant otherwise known as castor beans. The antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of castor oil make it useful in reducing acne. Castor oil is also rich in other fatty acids. These can enhance smoothness and softness when applied to facial skin. It penetrates into the skin and boosts the production of collagen which softens and hydrates the skin. It rejuvenates the skin by making it softer and smoother. Castor oil is the best oil to enrich your scalp and to improve hair growth, t helps to get rid of dandruff.

It is made from fresh Rose Damascena petals by direct steam distillation.Stimulates cellular renovation, increases skin elasticity, evens out skin tone and prevents pigmentation of mature skin. It has a pronounced smell of roses.

It is the liquid that comes from the seed of the Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) plant, it’s actually a liquid plant wax. The most notable benefits of jojoba oil include its ability to moisturize the hair, prevent hair loss, reduce inflammation, prevent acne, soothe sunburn, rejuvenate the skin, eliminate dandruff, fight free radical damage, boost the immune system, and speed up the healing process. It can attack the underlying fungal, viral or bacterial infection and neutralize it quickly. Also jojoba oil benefit is that it plays the role of sebum and moisturizes our skin and hair when our body stops doing it naturally Jojoba oil removes sticky buildup or excess oil, too; it keeps your oil levels balanced. So, jojoba oil works as a protectant and cleanser.

Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin). Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate can replace some of the water lost in the dermis, and potentially fight wrinkles and other signs of aging. Stimulates own hyaluronic acid production. Improves skin immunity by stimulating the production of antimicrobial peptides.

Squalene are natural components of human sebum, a mixture of lipids produced by glands in the skin. It is used in cosmetics to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) or prevent moisture loss, and to restore the skin’s suppleness and flexibility. It reducees the oxidative damage to the skin due to exposure to UV light and prevents pigmentation.

Tocopherols are another group of chemicals that make up the vitamin E family. Tocotrienols target specific free radicals and sources of inflammation, however. Applied to skin, it is considered a good moisturizing and skin-soothing ingredient. Beta-Sitosterol ia a fatty acid-type ingredient derived from plants. Beta-sitosterol occurs naturally in many fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is similar to cholesterol, which occurs naturally in skin. It Improves an epitelization, ptotecks from UV-rays.

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide with many industrial uses, which is made by mixing fermented sugars. It is used as a stabiliser, emulsifier, thickener, suspending agent and bodying agent. Xanthan gum exhibits high viscosity at low concentrations, little change in viscosity at varying temperatures, and excellent stability over a wide pH range.It improves cream texture und moisturizes the skin.

является естественным компонентом липидной мантии кожи и производным сальных желез. При его дефиците нарушается нормальное отшелушивание кожи и формируется гиперкератоз, появляется высокая чувствительность кожи, а также, нарушается формирование гидролипидной мантии. Является отличным антиоксидантом и способствует нейтрализации свободных радикалов, помогая защитить кожу от негативного воздействия ультрафиолетового и ионизирующего излучения.

Быстро окисляется при контакте с воздухом, что требует определенной технологии при его применении в косметических продуктах.